Throughout Hungary's history, wine has played a pivotal role, serving as a key export and a vital sustenance for both the rich and poor.
Today, Hungary remains a significant global wine producer, boasting 22 wine regions and 59,000 hectares (146,000 acres) of vineyards. Most vineyards in Hungary are classified as cool-climate and are situated in the northeastern part of Europe's wine-growing zone. Tokaj, famous for being the world's oldest classified wine region, continues to produce some of the country's most celebrated wines.
A Brief History
Winemaking in Hungary traces back to Roman times, possibly even earlier to the Celts, who first planted grapevines near the stunning Lake Balaton in western Hungary. By the time the Hungarian tribes conquered the area in the 9th century CE, vineyards were already well established. Initially, Hungary's medieval kings entrusted viticulture to the Benedictine monks, who were renowned for their expertise in winemaking.
The 12th and 13th centuries saw German, French, and Italian settlers bring improved viticulture techniques to various regions. However, the Ottoman invasion in the 16th century halted progress in southern Hungary, leading to the abandonment of vineyards. This prompted new winemaking hubs to emerge in the unoccupied north, particularly in Sopron and Tokaj.
By the late 17th century, Tokaj's golden-hued sweet aszú wines were gaining acclaim across Europe, even making their way to the palaces of popes, emperors, and Russian czars. These wines were so highly regarded that they were sometimes used as diplomatic tools, as seen when Ferenc Rákóczi II sent shipments of Tokaj to France's Louis XIV to curry political favor.
Hungary's wine industry flourished after the formation of Austria-Hungary in 1867, becoming the second-largest wine producer in Europe behind France. Unfortunately, the phylloxera plague of the late 19th century devastated Hungary's vineyards, forcing many winemakers to either emigrate or start anew on sandy vineyards in central Hungary, where the deadly insects couldn’t survive.
During Communist rule (1948-1989), state-owned cooperatives prioritized quantity over quality, leading to mass-produced wines that lacked the sophistication of earlier generations. Many family winemakers, facing political and economic pressure, abandoned their high-quality hillside vineyards.
As consumers look for more variety in their wine diet, Hungary is uniquely positioned to deliver a plethora of great offerings to the marketplace.
The Present Day
Following the fall of Communism, Hungary's wine industry saw a resurgence. The 1990s ushered in a wave of revival as small family wineries emerged, and locals rediscovered their appreciation for Hungarian wines. While the early 2000s saw a trend towards powerful, oak-driven wines, today's winemakers are leaning towards more subtle, less intrusive techniques that allow the natural flavors of the grapes and soil to shine. Natural and orange wines have also become increasingly popular in Budapest.
Internationally, however, Hungarian wines still struggle to carve out a niche, with many remaining relatively unknown outside the country. Sweet wines like Tokaj's aszú, despite their complexity, are less fashionable in modern markets, and foreign grape varieties often fail to capture the unique essence of Hungary's terroir.
Major Wine-Producing Regions
Tokaj: Hungary's most famous wine region, Tokaj consists of 27 historic villages in the northeast. It is known for both its sweet aszú wines and, more recently, excellent dry wines and pezsgő (sparkling wine).
Eger: Located in northern Hungary's volcanic mountains, Eger is known for its Bull’s Blood (Bikavér) blend, producing savory red and white wines.
Sopron: Situated near the Austrian border, Sopron is famous for kékfrankos (blaufränkisch), with some winemakers rivaling the best producers across the border in Austria.
Northern Balaton & Somló: This region offers striking views of Lake Balaton and produces exceptional olaszrizling (welschriesling). Somló, slightly away from the lake, is home to small family winemakers specializing in the unique juhfark grape.
Villány & Szekszárd: In southern Hungary, these regions are known for their bold reds, including kadarka and cabernet franc. Szekszárd's delicate, spicy kadarka was even a favorite of Franz Liszt.
Popular Grape Varieties
Historically, Hungary has been a predominantly white-wine-producing country, with red wines only gaining prominence in the 17th century. Today, white wines still make up the majority of Hungary's production, although reds hold an equal share in the premium segment.
Furmint: The primary grape of Tokaj, furmint produces both sweet aszús and dry, mineral-rich wines with a zesty acidity.
Hárslevelű: Often paired with furmint in blends, hárslevelű adds floral notes that balance furmint’s sharp acidity.
Olaszrizling (welschriesling): Known for its approachable acidity and almond notes, olaszrizling is a crowd-pleasing white variety.
Kékfrankos (Blaufränkisch): Hungary’s most widely planted red grape, kékfrankos produces medium-bodied reds with hints of cherry and spice.
Kadarka: This easy-drinking red is known for its fruity and spicy notes, but its low tannin content and thin skin make it difficult to grow.
Tokaj’s Aszú Wines
The wines of Tokaj, particularly the sweet aszú offerings, are among the most iconic and revered in the world of wine. Steeped in history, Tokaji Aszú has been enchanting royals and connoisseurs alike for centuries. As early as the 17th century, this golden-hued nectar was prized by European aristocracy, with Louis XIV famously declaring it the "wine of kings and the king of wines." Its rich legacy and celebrated place in history make it one of Hungary’s greatest vinous treasures.
At the heart of Tokaji Aszú’s magic is a unique phenomenon called botrytis cinerea, or “noble rot.” This beneficial fungus naturally affects the grapes, shriveling them into intensely concentrated, sweet-tart berries that are meticulously hand-picked. The resulting wine bursts with a complex bouquet of apricot, orange peel, and honey, balanced by a razor-sharp acidity that prevents it from being cloying. This harmony of flavors has made Tokaji Aszú one of the most highly regarded sweet wines globally, often compared to France's Sauternes or Germany's Beerenauslese.
Crafting Tokaji Aszú is a labor-intensive process that involves soaking the aszú berries in a base wine for several days to extract their flavors. The wine is then aged in barrels for years, allowing its rich layers of aromas and taste to develop further. The meticulous care and centuries-old techniques involved in its production contribute to its reputation as one of the world's most complex and age-worthy sweet wines.
In addition to the famed Aszú, Tokaj also produces rarer, more concentrated wines like Eszencia, a decadent, syrupy elixir made from the free-run juice of the botrytized grapes. Known for its extraordinary richness and sweetness, Eszencia is highly sought after and often reserved for the most discerning collectors.
A diverse understanding of the up and coming wine regions are important to the modern hospitality professional.
A Bright Future
Hungarian wines offer a remarkable diversity of flavors and styles that reflect the country's rich winemaking tradition and unique terroir. The legendary sweet aszú wines of Tokaj, often hailed as "the wine of kings and the king of wines," stand at the pinnacle of Hungary's vinous treasures, celebrated for their intricate balance of sweetness and acidity, created by the noble rot that transforms these grapes into a golden nectar. However, Tokaj is more than just sweet wines—its dry offerings are gaining international acclaim for their minerality and complexity.
Beyond Tokaj, Hungary’s lesser-known regions also have immense potential to produce exceptional wines at attractive prices. Regions like Villány and Szekszárd are gaining recognition for their bold, spicy reds, while Somló and the Balaton areas offer crisp, mineral-driven whites that capture the essence of Hungary's volcanic soils. Meanwhile, Eger continues to impress with its savory Bull’s Blood blends, and Sopron delivers some of the country’s finest kékfrankos.
As Hungary continues to refine its winemaking techniques and explore its indigenous grape varieties, there is no doubt that the country is poised to take its place on the global stage as a producer of both revered and accessible wines. For wine lovers seeking distinctive, quality wines that offer excellent value, Hungary's wine regions represent a treasure trove waiting to be discovered.
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