A Tour of Tuscany
Sangiovese rules the hills between Florence and Siena, and Tuscany's wine map runs far wider still, from Montalcino and Montepulciano to the towers of San Gimignano and the Bolgheri coast.
For many people, Tuscany is where a love of Italian wine begins. It might start with a bottle of Chianti at a neighborhood trattoria, a trip to Florence, or a first glass of Brunello on a special night. The region holds some of the most famous names in Italian wine, spread across hill towns, olive groves, and cypress-lined roads that look much as they do in old paintings. It is also a working landscape, where families have farmed the same slopes for generations and wine still belongs on the table at lunch.
To understand Tuscan wine is to look beyond the familiar name of Chianti and recognize a landscape of distinct appellations, each shaped by its own soils, elevations, traditions, and ambitions.
Most of it comes back to one grape, Sangiovese. The grape changes character from one hillside to the next, and Tuscans have built a handful of great appellations around those differences, from Chianti Classico between Florence and Siena to Montalcino and Montepulciano farther south. Around them sit smaller places that reward the curious, including the white wine of San Gimignano, the old Medici-era reds of Carmignano, and the coastal estates of Bolgheri, where Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot made some of the most celebrated wines Italy has produced. Between them, they cover almost every wine a dinner could call for, from crisp whites and easy everyday reds to bottles built to age for decades.
Best known for its medieval towers, San Gimignano also lends its name to Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG, a historic white wine appellation that demonstrates Tuscany's vinicultural identity extends beyond red wines.Where Exactly Is Tuscany?
Tuscany sits in central Italy, along the Tyrrhenian Sea. Liguria lies to the northwest, Emilia-Romagna to the north across the Apennines, Umbria to the east, and Lazio to the south, with Florence as the regional capital and Siena about an hour's drive south. More than two-thirds of the land is hilly, rising inland toward the Apennine ridge, while the west opens onto a long coastline and a scatter of islands that includes Elba. Most of the best vineyards sit on hillsides at roughly 150 to 500 meters, high enough to escape the worst of the summer heat.
The climate is warm and Mediterranean, with long, dry summers and most of the rain in autumn and winter. Altitude does much of the fine-tuning. On the higher slopes of Chianti Classico, around Radda and Lamole, cool nights hold onto acidity and perfume, while the lower, sunnier sites farther south and along the coast give riper, rounder wines. Soils add another layer. Much of Chianti Classico is built on galestro, a flaky, clay-rich marl that crumbles in the hand, and alberese, a hard, pale limestone, and growers often credit them with the firm structure and floral lift of the local Sangiovese. The coast is different again, often with looser, sandier ground and sea breezes that keep the vines healthy.
Sangiovese Changes With Every Hill
Chianti is the name most people know, and it covers a lot of ground. The broad Chianti DOCG spreads across much of central Tuscany, with subzones such as Rufina and Colli Senesi, while Chianti Classico is the historic heart between Florence and Siena, a zone first defined by Grand Duke Cosimo III de' Medici in 1716 and marked today by the black rooster on every bottle. Chianti Classico must be at least 80 percent Sangiovese, and its top tier, Gran Selezione, comes only from estate-grown grapes with at least 30 months of aging. The wines taste of sour cherry, violets, and dried herbs, with bright acidity and a savory finish, and estates such as Fontodi in Panzano, Castello di Ama, and Fèlsina show how much the hills can vary.
Farther south, the hilltop town of Montalcino makes Tuscany's most celebrated long-lived red. Brunello di Montalcino is pure Sangiovese, a tradition the Biondi-Santi family helped establish in the late nineteenth century, and it must spend at least two years in oak and cannot be sold until the fifth year after harvest. The warmer, drier climate gives darker fruit and firmer tannins that turn toward leather and earth with age. East of there, Montepulciano makes Vino Nobile from at least 70 percent Sangiovese, known locally as Prugnolo Gentile, and the town has nothing to do with the Montepulciano grape of Abruzzo. Brunello and Vino Nobile were among Italy's first DOCGs in 1980. West of Florence, Carmignano was one of the zones named in that same 1716 decree, and its reds have long blended Sangiovese with a little Cabernet.
Located near the Tyrrhenian Sea, Bolgheri represents a different side of Tuscan winemaking. Its maritime climate and international grape varieties have helped establish some of Italy's most celebrated Cabernet- and Merlot-based wines.Towers, Coastline, and Cabernet
Tuscany's best-known white comes from San Gimignano, the hill town famous for its medieval towers. Vernaccia di San Gimignano became Italy's very first DOC in 1966, and good examples, such as those from Montenidoli and Panizzi, are dry and full, with notes of almond, citrus peel, and a faint bitter edge that suits olive oil and fried food. Down in the Maremma, the open, rolling country of the south, Morellino di Scansano offers a softer, juicier take on Sangiovese, which must make up at least 85 percent of the blend, and neighboring Montecucco makes sturdier reds from the slopes of Monte Amiata. Almost every corner of the region also makes Vin Santo, a sweet wine from grapes dried indoors over the winter and aged for years in small barrels.
The Tuscan coast tells a newer story. In the 1940s, Marchese Mario Incisa della Rocchetta planted Cabernet Sauvignon at Tenuta San Guido near Bolgheri, and the 1968 vintage of his Sassicaia, released in 1971, showed that this stretch of coast could make wine of Bordeaux quality. Antinori's Tignanello, first made from the 1971 vintage, later blended Cabernet into its Sangiovese and went into small French barrels. Because wines like these broke the old appellation rules, they were first sold as simple table wine and soon became known as Super Tuscans. Bolgheri reds gained DOC status in 1994, and estates such as Ornellaia and Masseto, known for its Merlot, make some of Italy's most sought-after reds, with coastal Vermentino filling the white glasses alongside them.
Tuscany's reputation may have been built on the historic wines of Chianti, but its greater identity emerges through the remarkable diversity of its individual wine regions.
The Takeaway
Put simply, Tuscany is Sangiovese country with some very good neighbors. Chianti Classico shows the grape at its most savory, with cherry, herbs, and bright acidity, while Brunello di Montalcino takes it toward darker fruit and the patience of long aging. Vino Nobile and Carmignano sit comfortably between the two, each with its own accent. Morellino di Scansano keeps things easy and generous, Vernaccia di San Gimignano covers the white side of the table, and Bolgheri shows what the coast can do with Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Together they make one of the most complete wine regions in Europe, and one of the easiest to explore, since most of these towns sit within a couple of hours of Florence.
At the table, nearly all of it works the same way. Tuscan reds carry enough acidity and savory grip to stand up to tomato sauce, olive oil, grilled meat, and aged pecorino, which is why Chianti Classico and a bistecca alla fiorentina have kept each other company for so long. For anyone curious about Brunello without the wait or the price, Rosso di Montalcino comes from the same vineyards and is released much younger. A Chianti Classico Riserva or Gran Selezione will reward a few years in the cellar, while simple Chianti and Morellino are best enjoyed young and often, the way Tuscans drink them at home.